DIY Kayak Monopod for GoPro / Camera

Whether you want a better viewing angle for filming your adventures, need a better vantage point to capture your catch with you in the picture, or need a flexible way to use your GoPro ingeneral while on your kayak, a monopod which fits in your rod holders will be of great help.

This monopod costs under $25 and can extend to 6 feet in length, and have the GoPro tilt forward, backwards, side to side, and rotate 360 degrees.

Note that this is an improvement of the original DIY Camera Mount by Palmetto Kayak Fishing.


What You'll Need:

• Targus TG-MP6710 Monopod (12.99 @ Radioshack)
• Professional Mini Ball Head Camera Mount ($13 @ Amazon)
• All original tools/materials from original Palmetto Kayak Fishing blog.

Basically the idea behind this tutorial is to add the ball mount to any monopod, but particularly the DIY monopod as it will provide you with additional rotation while keeping your project under budget.

Cheap DIY Hobie Hatch Bucket/Liner

The front hatch of your Hobie Outback/Quest/Revo is pretty much useless without the hatch liner. However, the Hobie hatch liner can run you $60 which is ridiculous, instead you can use a flexible tub.

As noted on other posts, what you can do instead is spend about $15 getting the materials below and make your own hatch.

What you'll need:

• 10 minutes
• Scissors
• Marker/Pen
• Flexible tub "TubRub" Model # SP26SK.BL

1. Measure where you are going to cut:

• Place the tub inside of your hatch. 
• Push the tub down as far as possible to make sure it rests on the bottom
• With a pen or marker, draw a line on the tub right above where the black joint of the hatch meets the tub.
• IMPORTANT: make a note of how the tub is oriented, so that you know how to drop it back later.

Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

2. Cut the tub to measurements:

• Now that the tub is out, cut along the lines with your scissors
• To be on the safe side, cut above the line rather than under.

3. Place/Fit the tub into the hatch:

• Use your earlier note to direct how the tub should be oriented
• Push the tub down as far as possible.
• Check for any parts sticking out for additional trimming.

That's it, you're done! Now you've got some additional storage space in your Hobie kayak.

DIY Custom Roof Rack for Soft-top Jeep

Soft-top Jeeps make it difficult to install racks. You either have to purchase expensive racks like congo cages, or other custom racks running in the 100's of dollars.
The solution here is to use a Yakima Dry Dock on the back, and make this custom front-rack. 
I build this rack by making modifications to the original idea by JK-Forum member arjflyr. Here is a good photo of the end-result.

Credits: arjflyr

Parts Needed:

• Steel rectangular tubing (1x2 14 gauge (closest to Yakima 0.085 inch thickness))Hole for the yakima bar is going to be 1 3/8 HERE
• Length of the Yakima bars cut are going to be 65 cm (26 inches)
• Wedge Clamp from Yakima (part #8820082) to lock bar in place as on Dry Dock 
• Hammer Drill: To make the holes you'll need a hole saw drill bit. However, I used it with a hand drill and that hole was a little wider because it was impossible to keep it perfectly straight. Best way to do it easily? -> I'm doing it at the place which is already cutting the bars, otherwise you'll want a table drill.
• Yakima Bars or other tubular bars (The bar from the drydock is TOO SHORT, I hadn't realized, and although it is only about 3-4 inches too short it's enough to prevent you from adding the plugs in the holes.)

Lessons Learned:

• Go on the safe side in terms of the holes that hold the bar to the windshield side bar. Better be safe and leave some space between the bar and the door, and also watch out for the angle. My bar got closer to the door as the bar when up because the two holes in my bar were not parallel.
• You're absolutely going to need to get your metal bar painted on power coated, otherwise it'll rust. I had it powder-coated in flat black.

------- Part 2 ---------


I have come to the realization that a hammer drill is a must, but I'm running into issues drilling the 3/4 holes so I'm figuring that out.

Here's an updated diagram with the hole sizes required for the screws. Will post pictures when holes are done.

















































Once you're drilled your holes for the yakima bar, place the Wedge Clamp that you ordere to make sure that the wholes are large enough.


Note, if they're a little too large that's fine, since the clamp will in fact secure the bar.










------- Part 3 ---------


Ok guys, finally got done with my rack, powder-coated them and here's the end result. Not problem getting the soft-top off (no rub). Only downside is the noise in the wind, will have to address but pretty minor until I hit 45-50.

The wholes facing out are about 5/8, and I found some caps that cover them, i don't want water going through if I can help it. Also got some gasket scrap from a friend, which was perfect to hold the bar firm against the car without scratching it.


Cut the front bar as short as I could to keep things clean.


Used gasket between the metal bar and the car, worked out well.


Here are the 5/8 holes without caps.


Dry-dock at the back can be used for the height adjustment, here the kayak almost touch but are still clear off the roof.


 

Without top, without saddles.


Original post by arjflyr including my contributions can be found on JK-Forum here: http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?41615-Got-my-canoe-rack-done