The solution here is to use a Yakima Dry Dock on the back, and make this custom front-rack.
I build this rack by making modifications to the original idea by JK-Forum member arjflyr. Here is a good photo of the end-result.
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| Credits: arjflyr |
- Steel rectangular tubing (1x2 14 gauge (closest to Yakima 0.085 inch thickness))Hole for the yakima bar is going to be 1 3/8 HERE
- Length of the Yakima bars cut are going to be 65 cm (26 inches)
- Wedge Clamp from Yakima (part #8820082) to lock bar in place as on Dry Dock
- Hammer Drill: To make the holes you'll need a hole saw drill bit. However, I used it with a hand drill and that hole was a little wider because it was impossible to keep it perfectly straight. Best way to do it easily? -> I'm doing it at the place which is already cutting the bars, otherwise you'll want a table drill.
- Yakima Bars or other tubular bars (The bar from the drydock is TOO SHORT, I hadn't realized, and although it is only about 3-4 inches too short it's enough to prevent you from adding the plugs in the holes.)
Lessons Learned:
- Go on the safe side in terms of the holes that hold the bar to the windshield side bar. Better be safe and leave some space between the bar and the door, and also watch out for the angle. My bar got closer to the door as the bar when up because the two holes in my bar were not parallel.
- You're absolutely going to need to get your metal bar painted on power coated, otherwise it'll rust. I had it powder-coated in flat black.
------- Part 2 ---------
I have come to the realization that a hammer drill is a must, but I'm running into issues drilling the 3/4 holes so I'm figuring that out.
Here's an updated diagram with the hole sizes required for the screws. Will post pictures when holes are done.
Once you're drilled your holes for the yakima bar, place the Wedge Clamp that you ordere to make sure that the wholes are large enough.
Note, if they're a little too large that's fine, since the clamp will in fact secure the bar.
------- Part 3 ---------
Ok guys, finally got done with my rack, powder-coated them and here's the end result. Not problem getting the soft-top off (no rub). Only downside is the noise in the wind, will have to address but pretty minor until I hit 45-50.
The wholes facing out are about 5/8, and I found some caps that cover them, i don't want water going through if I can help it. Also got some gasket scrap from a friend, which was perfect to hold the bar firm against the car without scratching it.
Cut the front bar as short as I could to keep things clean.
Used gasket between the metal bar and the car, worked out well.
Here are the 5/8 holes without caps.
Dry-dock at the back can be used for the height adjustment, here the kayak almost touch but are still clear off the roof.
Without top, without saddles.
Original post by arjflyr including my contributions can be found on JK-Forum here: http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?41615-Got-my-canoe-rack-done
