DIY Kayak Monopod for GoPro / Camera

Whether you want a better viewing angle for filming your adventures, need a better vantage point to capture your catch with you in the picture, or need a flexible way to use your GoPro ingeneral while on your kayak, a monopod which fits in your rod holders will be of great help.

This monopod costs under $25 and can extend to 6 feet in length, and have the GoPro tilt forward, backwards, side to side, and rotate 360 degrees.

Note that this is an improvement of the original DIY Camera Mount by Palmetto Kayak Fishing.


What You'll Need:

• Targus TG-MP6710 Monopod (12.99 @ Radioshack)
• Professional Mini Ball Head Camera Mount ($13 @ Amazon)
• All original tools/materials from original Palmetto Kayak Fishing blog.

Basically the idea behind this tutorial is to add the ball mount to any monopod, but particularly the DIY monopod as it will provide you with additional rotation while keeping your project under budget.

Cheap DIY Hobie Hatch Bucket/Liner

The front hatch of your Hobie Outback/Quest/Revo is pretty much useless without the hatch liner. However, the Hobie hatch liner can run you $60 which is ridiculous, instead you can use a flexible tub.

As noted on other posts, what you can do instead is spend about $15 getting the materials below and make your own hatch.

What you'll need:

• 10 minutes
• Scissors
• Marker/Pen
• Flexible tub "TubRub" Model # SP26SK.BL

1. Measure where you are going to cut:

• Place the tub inside of your hatch. 
• Push the tub down as far as possible to make sure it rests on the bottom
• With a pen or marker, draw a line on the tub right above where the black joint of the hatch meets the tub.
• IMPORTANT: make a note of how the tub is oriented, so that you know how to drop it back later.

Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

2. Cut the tub to measurements:

• Now that the tub is out, cut along the lines with your scissors
• To be on the safe side, cut above the line rather than under.

3. Place/Fit the tub into the hatch:

• Use your earlier note to direct how the tub should be oriented
• Push the tub down as far as possible.
• Check for any parts sticking out for additional trimming.

That's it, you're done! Now you've got some additional storage space in your Hobie kayak.

Build you cheap light rack for under for the JK Wrangler

Here's a way to create a light bar for about $35 which you can mount aux lights to.

You'll need:

• Bathroom grab bar ($25 at your local hardware store)
• Hardware (nuts, bolts, fasteners) to mount bar on bumper
• Bed liner paint spray can ($8)
• Auxiliary lights

Basically here what you'll need to do is sand down and paint your handle bar.

You can use some fine sandpaper such as 800 or higher, at the end of the day this is going to be a pretty important part, as would adding a primer, since this will sit in front of your bumper and would therefore be in contact with small projectiles.

The second thing you need to do is to place the bar on top of the bumper cover, to figure out where to drill your holes.

Then you'll need to remove the bumper cover, drill the holes. Note: the bumper cover is a little filmsy, you might want to consider reinforcing with a flat metal bar which will sit in between the cover and the bumper mounts.

Then you want to place your auxiliary lights on your mount (off of the car) so that you can drill your holes.You'll want to make sure that your holes go through the bar level, otherwise your lights will be tilted.

You can then add your bumper cover back on the bumper, then bolt on your bar and then the lights. Wire everything up and you should be good to go.

Upgrading Jeep JK Factory Fog Lights

The factory fog lights on the Jeep JK are made out of plastic. The lens tends to flake after a year or so, and to replace them costs an arm and a leg.
This write-up cover a plug-and-play alternative, with fog lights that are made out of metal and glass, and are brighter too!

You won't have to remove the bumper, drill new holes, just bolt a couple of things and splice 4 wires. You will need to remove your air dam under the bumper (see here for more info).

Left: Pilot light,  Right: factory fog light

What you'll need:

• Pilot PL-360C Fog Light kit (about $56)
• 4 x 1/4" bolt, rubber washer, lock washer, dish washer)
• 4 x 18 gauge butt splice

Basically the first step is the most difficult. I wanted to re-use the factory mounts from the fog lights, as opposed to using the mounts that came with the lights and required drilling. What you first need to do is to pop-out the old plastic fog lights.

Simply pop out the factory light gently using a wide flat screwdriver

The second thing you'll need to do is to align the Pilot fogs with the stock mounts. Make sure that you're the fog light is not upside down, the "TOP" marking should be at the top.

You'll notice that there is some space between the light and the mount, which is where you'll use the rubber washer and dish washer. Screw in one side first, then the other. This should be tight enough to ensure correct alignment. (Bolt, washer | plastic mounts | lock washer, dish washer, rubber washer || light).

Here is the hardware you'll need (4 of each for the full install)

In order from left to right: rubber washer, dish washer, lock washer || washer, bolt

The plastic mount should have its "large" mounting surface facing the top.  

I'd recommend you test that everything lights up before splicing. 

Finished result

Add Storage for the Hobie Outback

One way to add more "secure" storage to the Outback for things like your phone, pliers, fish holder etc... is to add the Hobie Mesh Pockets. These pockets will also avoid things moving around in your kayak unlikes the side storage areas.

Installation Time: 15min per pocket

Supplies Needed:

• Hobie Mesh Pockets (Model #: 78560001) $10
• Stainless Steel Hardware (I used nuts/bolts rather than screws) 6 nuts, flathead bolts, fasteners
• Goop or preferred silicone product
• Duct Tape or Paint Tape
• Drill with a drill bit (3/8 of an inch I think)

Step 1: Mark Down Placement of the Pocket

• Tape down the pocket at your preferred location
• I recommend the locations in the pictures. The closer to the top, the easier it'll be to place things in there
• Before drilling make sure that there is nothing behind (rudder lines) that'll get in the way

 

Step 2: Drill the holes

• I recommend drilling the two top holes first, without stretching the pocket much. If the bottom corners are <90 degrees it's a good thing.
• Once these two are drilled, place two bolts in there so it stays in place
• Drill the remainder of the holes

Step 3: Screws everything together

• Before screwing everything in, add a some Goop to cover each hole, as well as on the threads of the bolt
• Fasten each nut/bolt one by one - not too tight otherwise it'll squeeze the rubber part of the mesh pocket and damage it

Finished! Work on the other pocket if you want, let dry for 12 hours, and you're set!