DIY Custom Roof Rack for Soft-top Jeep

Soft-top Jeeps make it difficult to install racks. You either have to purchase expensive racks like congo cages, or other custom racks running in the 100's of dollars.
The solution here is to use a Yakima Dry Dock on the back, and make this custom front-rack. 
I build this rack by making modifications to the original idea by JK-Forum member arjflyr. Here is a good photo of the end-result.

Credits: arjflyr

Parts Needed:

• Steel rectangular tubing (1x2 14 gauge (closest to Yakima 0.085 inch thickness))Hole for the yakima bar is going to be 1 3/8 HERE
• Length of the Yakima bars cut are going to be 65 cm (26 inches)
• Wedge Clamp from Yakima (part #8820082) to lock bar in place as on Dry Dock 
• Hammer Drill: To make the holes you'll need a hole saw drill bit. However, I used it with a hand drill and that hole was a little wider because it was impossible to keep it perfectly straight. Best way to do it easily? -> I'm doing it at the place which is already cutting the bars, otherwise you'll want a table drill.
• Yakima Bars or other tubular bars (The bar from the drydock is TOO SHORT, I hadn't realized, and although it is only about 3-4 inches too short it's enough to prevent you from adding the plugs in the holes.)

Lessons Learned:

• Go on the safe side in terms of the holes that hold the bar to the windshield side bar. Better be safe and leave some space between the bar and the door, and also watch out for the angle. My bar got closer to the door as the bar when up because the two holes in my bar were not parallel.
• You're absolutely going to need to get your metal bar painted on power coated, otherwise it'll rust. I had it powder-coated in flat black.

------- Part 2 ---------


I have come to the realization that a hammer drill is a must, but I'm running into issues drilling the 3/4 holes so I'm figuring that out.

Here's an updated diagram with the hole sizes required for the screws. Will post pictures when holes are done.

















































Once you're drilled your holes for the yakima bar, place the Wedge Clamp that you ordere to make sure that the wholes are large enough.


Note, if they're a little too large that's fine, since the clamp will in fact secure the bar.










------- Part 3 ---------


Ok guys, finally got done with my rack, powder-coated them and here's the end result. Not problem getting the soft-top off (no rub). Only downside is the noise in the wind, will have to address but pretty minor until I hit 45-50.

The wholes facing out are about 5/8, and I found some caps that cover them, i don't want water going through if I can help it. Also got some gasket scrap from a friend, which was perfect to hold the bar firm against the car without scratching it.


Cut the front bar as short as I could to keep things clean.


Used gasket between the metal bar and the car, worked out well.


Here are the 5/8 holes without caps.


Dry-dock at the back can be used for the height adjustment, here the kayak almost touch but are still clear off the roof.


 

Without top, without saddles.


Original post by arjflyr including my contributions can be found on JK-Forum here: http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?41615-Got-my-canoe-rack-done

Back-Up Camera Installation + Custom Adjustable Bracket (14$)

I purchased a flush-mount rear camera, the good old $22 PYLE PLCM22IR from Amazon. Didn't want to drill through my bumper partly because I didn't want a whole in it, but also because I wanted something adjustable if possible.

Items Used:

• Aluminum Sheet ($14) at HD
• 4 Metal Screws (laying around)
• Drill
• Dremmel
• Marine Good (waterproofing screws to bumper)
• Rear camera
• 18 Gauge wire (to get the power from the 12v inlet from the center console to trunk)

1) I wired up the camera, the Video cable going under the cargo carpet, through to the console between the two front seat, onto the stereo (couldn't go around the passenger side, not enough length.

2) I drew the 12V power form the input close to the 4-wheel stickshift, and ran that to the cargo. That allows me to turn on the camera at any time if needed.

3) Important: Now I had the camera hooked up and could check all the different angles, before choosing a mount. I had originally wanted a spare-tire mount, but that prevented me from seeing close enough to my trailer hitch (could see closer than 2-3 feet).

4) Didn't want to drill into bumper, so I purchase this following piece of aluminum from HD for $14. Cut piece for the mount that was wide enough to be sturdy, and long enough to be drilled in two rows behind the bumper (note, small whole was not needed, initially planned on locking the mount through one of the hitch screws).
I also curved back the bottom of the bracket for added projection.


[*]5) Added Goop in the whole before screwing the mount into the bumper, to waterproof the wholes and make the whole setup nice and tight.
[*]6) Tested the angle of the camera, adjustable with the aluminum bending slightly as needed.[/LIST]
Results: Adjustable, Factory-bumper, med-easy, sturdy mount. Camera on whenever I switch to the video input










I originally posted this on JK-Forum: http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?150621-Rear-Camera-Custom-Adjustable-Bracket-(14-)

Install Double-Din HU with 12$ harness, retain "RAP" feature

I am no expert and never installed a stereo. Having done it successfully I wanted to share some of the things that were not too clear for me based on the posts I had read upon. (This is for a Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD to replace a 2009 stock non-infinity RES replacement radio)

1) Wire Harness for Aftermarket HU (in this case Pioneer)
The sticky on this forum notes 2 harnesses for the infinity and non-infinity radios. Both of those are pretty pricy, and so is the 60$ PAC one from crutchfield.
I tried and wanted to confirm that the 12$ option for the cheap harness does the job if you don't have navigation/camera in which case some of the Canbus items may be helpful.
I've hooked up the power to the driver side power outlet, which means that when I turn off and remove my keys, the HU stays on until I open my doors. The wire you want to tap into this the BLUE/PURPLE not the black one. It'll connect to the RED/White from your harness via an extension cable you'll need to get (FYI, the Scoshe connector below comes with the harness AND an additional 12 inch wire which includes an inline fuse...so that's sweet).

I believe the models are:

• Metra 70-6522
• Scosche CR04B

2) Need to cut/saw the top of the back metal braket.
I actually decided to remove the whole braket. I then decided to saw the top of an put it back in. That works fine, but if you don't feel like cutting it you might as well remove it altogether. You'll just need to secure two sets of wires which used that bracket as support.

Lessons Learned

• Remove any CD from your old stereo before installing the new one!
• You do NOT need the 18" antenna extension cable which is provided for free by Crutchfield. I'm saying this in case you're buying the parts from somwhere else.
• Go to your local car stereo shop and speak with the guys, mine where J&R Electronics in Miami and the guy gave me free connectors, wire, and was very helpful with everything.
• If you do the ebrake mod for the dvd, it is easy and cheap but is very dangerous in my opinion.

I hope this helps the next guy.



Here is the end result.



--------------- Update on 10/20/2012 ------

Well it just got stolen so I'm going to be using my write-up to re-install one. At least they unscrewed it without breaking anything...



I originally posted this on JK-Forum: http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?135610-Install-Double-Din-HU-with-12-harness-retain-quot-RAP-quot-feature

Rod Building 101 - Part 5: Last Coat, Signing Blank, Finish Butt

-------- Section 8 ------ Last Coat + Writing + Sand Off Fighting Butt

Ok so at this point the Rod should be finished, however I am still debating what to do about the writing, which once coated revealed that the clear coat it was on that had been sanded for writing, still displays scratches from the sandpaper.

After Sanding off Butt Cap

Last Coat

Writing

Rod Building 101 - Part 4: Hook Keeping, Finishing Wraps, Cutting Off Handle Plug

------ Section 4 ------- Re-Wrapping the Hook Keeper

After the first coat, I had over-sanded the finish and got to the wrap. Therefore I ended-up having to strip off everything and start again :S (good practice I guess).

------ Section 5 ------ Finishing Guide Wraps + Finish

The first set of wraps for my guides had pretty thick trims. I decided to redo those and prefer the way they looked. 

My problem with thin trims was the wraps loosening up when cutting the tag ends, so I resolved that somewhat by:

1) rubbing denatured alcohol before on the blank
2) tightening my wraps (used my finders as well as the thread tensioner).
3) Didn't cut the tag ends until the first coat was cured and then shaved it off with a razor blade

Trims BEFORE thinning and finish:

Trim AFTER finishing and thinning (about 2-3 threads narrower):



Tip Top Trim: went with black to keep it subtle, added a small white spiral thingie (think they're called inlays)

Overview After first 2 Coats:

-------- Section 7 ----- Cutting Off Handle Plug

Although a little untimely, as it probably should have been done earlier, I also cut the plug with a razor, and sanded left-overs with 90-220-300 paper.

Progress Status: Once again I was sanding the hook keeper because I noticed a bump, but overdid it and am in the process of re-wrapping it. TODO: sign the road and add the last coats.

Rod Building 101 - Part 3: Wrapping the Hook Keeper

Ok so this section I have been having issues. (see my post: How To Hide tag end once cut?)

I have gotten to a point where I am somewhat please but I am attaching some photos of my progression because I have some questions.

First wrap, didn't get the tag end located well so that was a do-over

This second one was a little better but I ended up messing up a lot of wraps but scraping the metallic color off of the wrap when cutting of the tag end.

I ended up having to clean and re-wrap this, because you'll see some places where the wrap's blue color is either silver or black (thread damaged because I sanded the first coat of fishing too much), but at least I learned how to remove the whole thing and re-do it (may be helpful for repairs).

Finally this is my last wrap, I think it looks better but hesitant to put the finish on it. I do have the tag end sticking out a little but I think I should be able to sand it down or shave it with a razor blade after a thing first coating of finish.

Rod Building 101 - Part 2: Guides Preparation (Part 2)

This is pretty straightforward, I sanded down the guide a little both under for better adhesion to the blank and on the top for smoother contact with the thread.

After figuring out my guide spacing, I taped the blank to the meter and marked down each guide placement with the 3/4" masking take that I cut into 1/4" wide strips.

Mark your guides using a meter and masking tape

Sanding down guide with a flat file

Check that guides sit on blank correctly

That was pretty straightforward and I'll make sure to test the spacing by setting the reel and running a line through it when I get closer to wrapping the guides.

Rod Building 101 - Part 1: Grip and Foregrip Set-Up

For my first rod I bought a St Croix kit and in terms of tools I didn't really buy any, so I'm using the box and book wrapper jig, the drill to sand the cork, and other things laying around when substitution was possible.

------Section 1 ------

Here is the grip and reel seat section of the build. Not that the handle kit from St Croix came with the foregrip, but I over reamed it and decided to get a new one. When I did, I realized it needed to be shaped so I built a makeshift rotating device based on some things I saw on the forum

First reamed the grip and that one fit nice. Used marking tape as recommended.

Then reamed the thing that goes inside of the reel seat (forgot the name). This one was a lot more tender so reaming was slower and more meticulous.

For the fore-grip, I over-reamed the one that cane with the set, so after finding the only local supplier I got one that I hadn’t planned on being standard in shape. Decided to figure out a way to smooth out the edges. Additional tools like clamps and driveway reflector courtesy of my local hardware store.

Sanded down with 90 - 140 - 320 sand paper.

Scary moment but this one was not over reamed (Fun Fact: I had bought 2 foregrips just in case, and after shaping this one, I thought I had reamed it to perfection when I noticed that I had reamed the unshaped one. So I decided to shape the already-reamed one and that worked out well.

Sanded down the blank gently to prepare for the epoxy.

Applied epoxy in between the masking tape and smoothed it out with the pop sickle stick.

Repeated steps for reel seat and fore grip, and then put some epoxy on the winding check when in was about 1inch from the foregrip, and voila.

Did some reaming inside of the cord to prepare it for the rounded shape of the plug.

Stuck in the plug by holding the handle grip tightly and rotating the plug slightly. I didn't want to temper with the way the grip had been glued to the blank a day before.

Still haven't cut the sticking end of the plug, but once that's done I'll sand it down and should be done.